Starbucks conflates charcoal with complexity, and while Peet’s, the best of the chains, compensates for the overly dark roast of its beans with care in preparation, we still long for the sort of gracefully balanced espresso that’s ubiquitous in Paris and Rome and Seattle. Because what most caffeine-and-laptop joints sell is nothing more than a thimble of dirty water. There are some exceptions, of course: When we’re in Eagle Rock, we always have confidence ordering a shot at Swork, where they use beans roasted by Chicago’s estimable Intelligentsia Coffee. West Hollywood’s Urth Caffe makes two admirable espressos, regular and dolce, with organic beans. But the revelation in our hunt for the ideal espresso was Sabor y Cultura. Formerly called Espresso Mi Cultura, the artsy, activist-minded café on Hollywood Boulevard boasts rich, chocolaty espresso that’s smooth rather than bitter and capped with a layer of thick, dark, gleaming crema that escorts and protects delicate aroma notes. It’s a product of painstaking precision in grinding, compacting, and measuring. Owner Ramon Pantoja even adjusts the fineness of the grounds according to the humidity levels outside. “Espresso is so rarely done right in America,” he says, “which is why we treat it like people do in other countries – like the gourmet drink that it is.” The free wireless Internet access, monthly art exhibits, and regular evening entertainment wouldn’t be the same without a demitasse of Pantoja’s espresso.
Los Angeles Magazine
“The Best of LA”
August 2004